Copyright © 2010 by "This Little Piggy & Me"  •   All Rights reserved    Website Developed & Maintained by Laird Web Service
Where Every Little Piggy Finds Their FOREVER HOME
Caring and Feeding your new Guinea Pig

Like any other of God's creatures, guinea pigs LOVE TO EAT which is excellent as it is very essential for your new friend's health and well-being.  Guinea pigs are natural vegetarians, so they eat no meat or animal products.  They definitely do not like their veggies cooked nor frozen and sweets should be avoided entirely as they are very unhealthy for them.

Unlike squirrels, guinea pigs do not have food pouches inside their mouths and therefore do not store any food  -  what they eat goes directly to their stomachs.  They do not use their front paws for eating (like a squirrel or a hamster), so a guinea pit relies totally on his jaws to get his food from dish to mouth.  Piggies do eat quickly, especially when it comes to their favorite foods.  When a bunch of these adorable little furballs begin munching together, it sounds like several eating machines have invaded your home!!

There are three (3) components that make up a guinea pig diet.
1. Dry foods  -  prepared guinea pig food and hay
2. Fresh vegetables and fruits
3. Fresh water daily
1.  DRY FOODS

Pellets
People usually think of pellet feed as something that only rabbits eat, but specially made pellets just for guinea pigs are available.  Guinea pig pellets are alfalfa-based and contain the vitamins and minerals that provide the basis for your pet's nutrition.
Make sure you only buy pellets specifically for guinea pigs.  Hamster or rabbit food or combination small animal mixes are not suitalbe for guinea pigs as they lack essential vitamin C and may contain ingredients guinea pigs cannot easily digest.
For optimum freshness, purchase pellets in sealed bags and not from bulk bins.  Do not buy pellets in quantities larger than what can be used up in a few weeks, and use airtight containers for storage.
Give each guinea pig approximately two (2) tablespoons of pellets twice a day (approximately 1/8 to 1/4 cup daily).  More is definitely not better as guinea pigs do not usually overeat.
It is essential that you sift the pellets before feeding to your guinea pig.  Most dry pellets will have settled and the pellet dust will be spread throughout the feed.  Guinea pigs have very sensitive respiratory systems and the more dust you can keep out of their habitats, the better.
HAY, HAY, HAY (AND LOTS OF IT !!!)
The "daily bread" of Guinea Pigs.  Guinea pigs need free access to fibrous foods (pure roughage), such as hay.  Daily hay is necessary to keep a piggie's digestive system in good running order (pun intended!).
Before purchasing your hay, make sure of the following:
O
Check it for freshness  -  good, clean hay should have a sweet smell and very little dust.  Also see how soft it is.  The softer our hay is, the more our piggies love it!
O
Examine for mold - If you see mold or if it smells musty, DO NOT BUY!!  Mold can be fatal to guinea pigs.
O Do not buy hay that is wet or damp; that will only promote mold growth.
O
Once you get it home, store your hay in a cool place protected from rain and dampness.  We find that if kept in a bin with a tight fitting lid, our hay stays fresher longer.
There are different types of hay available; Timothy, alfalfa, mixed grass, etc.  We feel that Timothy or a mixed grass hay is generally best for each of your buddies since most pellets already include alfalfa.  Plus, the addition of more alfalfa could result in an overweight piggie.
It can be purchased from several sources; most pet shops or grocery stores will stock packaged Timothy and/or alfalfa while feed stores, stables and local farmers can supply bales.  A bale will generally weigh between 40-60 pounds.
Keep a hay rack in the habitat and place new hay into it daily.  This will (hopefully) keep it from scattering all over the floor of the cage and your piggies from eating it off the floor.  Would you want to eat off your bathroom floor??
2. FRESH FOODS

Just like children, each guinea pig has his own special set of taste buds and likes and dislikes when it comes to food.  If a pig has decided he doesn't want or like something, no amount of coaxing will convince him otherwise.  Sometimes they eat so furiously that you'd think they hadn't eaten in days but they will not eat to the point of gluttony.  Guinea pigs will only eat until they are full and all uneaten food must be removed from the habitat daily.

To avoid wasting large amounts of fresh food, try feeding your guinea pig a small handful of fresh veggies and fruit two (2) or three (3) times daily at regular intervals, instead of a large amount all at one time.

Vegetables and fruit with the richest color contain the most food value. 
NEVER give your piggie any food that has even the slightest bit of mold; mold is fatal to guinea pigs.  Don't feed any food that is spoiled (if you wouldn't eat it, your piggie shouldn't either).  Thoroughly wash any fruit or veggie before feeding them to your new friend.

At
THIS LITTLE PIGGY & ME, all fresh foods are cut up (bite-size or a little larger) and given with their morning and evening meals.  (Guinea pigs cannot 'hold their food' like a squirrel or hamster, and we have found they prefer pieces they can devour easily) We place a variety into their food bowls so it doesn't lie on the habitat floor.  We also give out some veggies in their full-leaf state at a different time of day for a treat.  These are placed either on top of their houses or on a rock kept in their habitats for this purpose.

Here are some fruits and veggies that most guinea pigs will eat:
LETTUCE  -  Feed only Romaine or leaf lettuce.  Iceberg (or head lettuce) contains mostly fiber and water and has little nutritional value for guinea pigs.
KALE AND SPINACH  -  Especially rich in vitamin C.
GRASS  -  Now here's one they never seem to grow tired of.  It doesn't matter if you have picked some and brought it in to them to munch on or you have them outside grazing, these little guys love their grass!!  Don't get the grass from the side of the road or from lawns that have been sprayed with chemicals or used by other pets.  And never feed clippings that have been mulched through a lawnmower because the juices that are produced can cause bloat and stomach upset.
DANDELION LEAVES AND CLOVER  -  Feed in small amounts and also be careful where you pick them.
CARROTS  -  Baby carrots are much better for you piggie and only require cutting into smaller pieces.  For regular carrots, peel and trim off both ends.  You can use the green leafy tops for another feeding.
Then there are the ones not every Oreo, Fluffy, and Seabiscuit will like:
BROCCOLI  -  The piggies that like broccoli seem to love the smaller leaves and the florets when cut into bite-size pieces.  They will also eat the stalk if it is small and tender.
CUCUMBER  -  The most food value is in the peelings but not those that are heavily waxed like you find is grocery stores.  In fact, heavily waxed peelings should not be fed to your piggie.
MELONS  -  Doesn't really matter what kind, be it watermelon, honeydew, canteloupe, etc.  Just be sure to remove any seeds as they can pose a choking problem.  Some piggies even enjoy the rinds.
APPLES  -  I find if I hold a thin slice, Abby really likes Red Delicious ones!!
GREEN or RED BELL PEPPER, CITRUS FRUIT, STRAWBERRIES, PINEAPPLE are all a good source of vitamin C.
CABBAGE  -  May be offered in small amounts.  Most piggies will enjoy munching on veggie cores such as those from lettuce and celery, but do not feed them fruit cores as they may choke on the seeds.
Also try:  CILANTRO, CELERY (especially the leaves), SWISS CHARD, PARSLEY, ENDIVE, BANANAS, PEARS, PEAS, CORN HUSKS, KIWI, CARROT TOP GREENS, TOMATOS (cherry or grape variety), BING CHERRIES
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE:

It has been brought to my attention that a new study found GRAPES to be toxic to dogs.  While most of my piggies seem to love green, red, and black seedless grapes, I will now not recommend feeding them.  I feel that it is only a matter of time before they are found to be toxic to other animals as well.

IF IN DOUBT, DON'T FEED IT TO YOUR GUINEA PIG!!

NEVER FEED YOUR GUINEA PIG ANY OF THE FOLLOWING!!

•  Houseplants of any kind
•  Any part of the Potato plant itself including potato peelings
•  Beet Leaves
•  Rhubarb
•  Flowers or any part of any Flowering Plant
•  Unknown Weeds
•  Any Foods that have been previously Frozen

A Good Rule to Follow is:
IF YOU WOULDN'T EAT IT, WHY SHOULD YOUR GUINEA PIG!!
3.  FRESH WATER DAILY

DO YOU REALLY NEED . . .

•   DRINKING BOTTLES ?  -- Yes!!

Water is the only beverage a guinea pig needs, and there must be a fresh, constant supply.  A plastic water bottle designed expecially for small animals is the only proctical and functional way of providing water for your guinea pig.  Any other means of watering your pet, such as placing a bowl inside the habitat, will not work, because the bowl will be tipped over or soiled.  NEVER GIVE YOUR GUINEA PIG ANY KIND OF DRINKING DEVICE THAT HAS A GLASS SIPPER TUBE.  Guinea pigs tend to gnaw on their sipper tubes rather vigorously and a glass one would severely injure your pet if he were to gnaw through it.

•   VITAMIN C SUPPLEMENTS ?  -- No!!

Guinea pigs, like humans, cannot manufacture their own vitamin C.  Many of the health problems that affect piggies can be traced to vitamin C deficiencies.  Feeding your friend a proper, balanced diet with lots of fresh veggies and fruits high in Vitamin C is a much more preferred method over manufactured supplements to maintain good health and nutrition.

Liquid Vitamin C supplements that you place in the water bottle are definitely not a good thing.  First, they deteriorate rapidly in the store where purchased and in the water you place them into, making them useless.  Second, the drops make the water taste funny, which may deter your pigs from drinking -- not good!!

•   SALT LICKS ?  -- No!!

Salt licks may cause kidney stones and other medical problems.  A second reason why they are not necessary is the possiblity of a choking hazard if your friend bites chucks from them.  The brown ones contain trace (a very tiny amount) minerals that are advertised as helping to maintain your guinea pig's overall health.  We feel it is much better to maintain overall health with a weekly weigh-in and check-up performed by you that is connected to a proper, balanced diet.